I've ended up losing first few frames and having a few blank shots because I failed to align the dot.
Also, another bonehead move on my part is not aligning the red dot with the arrow on the film paper back while loading it. I always forget and risk exposing my film while fumbling getting reels in place. I recommend getting your spools properly in place before breaking the new film seal. I use a short remote wired shutter release, which is easier than locating the shutter button in front. The c220 does not compensate for parallax error, I'm not sure if the c330 does that. don't forget looking though waist viewfinder ground glass is the inverse mirror image, so getting composition correctly is awkward and takes some getting used to. I've done double exposures with the built-in multi-exp mode. I've shot infrared rollei 400 and ilford sfx compensating three stops for the red filter. I don't have a light meter and I wing it with sunny 16 rule. On the side it tells you how many stops basedon the lens used. Also, when zoomed in, don't forget to compensate for light loss through the bellows. But comparing the images, the build, the price point and the extensive lens availability, and the Mamiya C330 will actually more than hold it’s own in a head to head competition. Not terrible outcome, but could potentially produce out of focus shots. The Rolleiflex 2.8f vs Mamiya C330F Most would give the TLR legend status to the Rolleiflex 2.8. For the longest time I had the back film plate set at 220 when shooting 120mm film. I have finally mastered the use of it, but took me a while.
0 kommentar(er)
